Best classic climbs in Naranjo de Bulnes

Naranjo de Bulnes (2,519 m), locally known as Picu Urriellu, is Spain’s most famous mountain and the most sought-after summit for any spanish mountaineer. It’s an imposing tower standing up to 700 m above the surrounding terrain, deep in the heart of the Picos de Europa range, a huge area of wild limestone peaks and deep gorges.

These massive walls gather magnificent multi-pitch routes on good to perfect rock, from 5-6 pitches (250m) up to over 20+ pitches (750m), ranging from about 4b to 8c+.

El Picu is also home to the first modern climb in spanish mountaineering, when Pedro Pidal and Gregorio Pérez, El Cainejo, dare to venture through the dizzying north face in 1904 and subsequently climbed down by the same route, guided by their courage.

Located in Northern Spain, the Picos de Europa range features a lot more beyond Naranjo de Bulnes, tons of peaks and walls with endless rock climbing potential and classic climbs in all sort of styles, sizes and difficulties: Horcados Rojos, Peña Santa or Torre Cerredo, to name just a few.

ACTIVITY DETAILS

Day 1:

Day 2:

  • Hike up to the base of the chosen route (15 min to 1h15min)
  • Rock climbing activity (3 to 10 hours).
  • Hike back to Refugio Vega de Urriellu (15 min to 1h15min).
  • Hike down to Collado Pandébano (1.5 to 2 hours).
  • Carpooling back to Arenas de Cabrales (45min).
  • We typically need 2 days to climb Naranjo de Bulnes, as it’s highly recommended to hike up (2.5 to 3 hours and almost 900 m of elevation gain) and overnight at the Refugio de Vega Urriellu the previous day. From the hut we need to hike another 15 min to 1.5 hours to get to the base of the climbs, depending on the chosen face.
  • Longer trips and other guided climbs in the Picos de Europa range are available at request.
  • Activities on consecutive days get a 10% discount.
  • Pidal-Cainejo, 400 m, V-.
  • Directa de los Martínez, 250 m, IV+.
  • Nani, 250 m, V+.
  • Cepeda, 350 m, V+.
  • Amistad con el diablo, 240 m, V+.
  • Murciana 78, 550 m, 6a, A1+.
  • Rabadá-Navarro, 750 m, 6c.
  • Sagitario, 260 m, 6a+.
  • Good physical condition.
  • Previous climbing experience.
  • Medium to high, depending on the chosen route.
  • Technical clothing for the time of year (warm clothes, windbreaker, waterproofs, etc.). It is always good to have a light layer (or multiple layers), even in the summer.
  • Comfortable clothing (loose and not bulky).
  • Backpack (approx. 40-45 litres).
  • Approach shoes or trainers, appropiate for hiking.
  • Water bottle (at least 1 litre).
  • Snacks (bars, packed meals, some fruit).
  • Sun protection (sunglasses, sunscreen, lip balm, cap or hat).
  • Headtorch and batteries.
  • Camera or phone.
  • Trekking poles can be useful in a long approach.

For the hut:

  • A lightweight silk/cotton travel liner is necessary (can be rented on place). There’s no need to bring a sleeping bag as every bed has its own pillow and duvet.
  • A minimum toilet bag (toothbrush and toothpaste).
  • Earplugs (recommended).

TECHNICAL DIFFICULTY

MEDIUM

PHYSICAL CONDITION

MEDIUM/HIGH

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